Newfoundland east coast

About us: Husband and wife in our 70’s from B.C. Canada
Newfoundland is the only province we have not been to, until now
Our itinerary:
2 nights St. John’s
3 nights Elliston
3 nights Twillingate
3 nights Fogo Island
3 Nights Rocky Harbour
2 nights St. Anthony
2 nights Deer Lake ( Woody Point).

June 8, 2025
We arrived into St.Johns airport from Toronto at around 8 PM. A cab down town was a set rate of $35 and only a 15 minute drive to the Murray Premise hotel. A lovely heritage building with high ceilings, beams and large rooms. $214 CDN per night.
We are now 4 1/2 hours ahead of home ( Vancouver Island) but thankfully able to fall asleep at midnight.

Day 1. After enjoying our included continental breakfast we arranged for a cab to drive us to the top of Signal Hill where we walked around to enjoy to views over St. John’s. We are so lucky that the day is clear and quite warm but very windy at the top.

We walked down the steep road and tried to find the Battery, (an area of colourful houses on the shoreline) but must have taken a wrong turn somewhere.

A cab was called and we were off to Quidi Vidi, a small fishing village turned tourist attraction. Lunch at the Quidi Vidi pub was great for Doug, he enjoyed two pieces of cod with chips and an Iceberg beer.

We walked around for a short time then called a cab to go back to our hotel for a rest. It seemed that a cab cost $14-$16 no matter where in town you went.
That evening we just went across the street to Jack Astors for dinner and we each had a fantastic Buddha salad. It was a fun pub / restaurant atmosphere with great staff and food.

Day 2. A cab was called after breakfast to take us to Enterprise car rental on Kenmount street rather than go back to the airport. I booked this months ago. I actually booked everything months ago which is what I was advised to do on tripadvisor and glad I did as prices went up and availability went way down. The staff here were exceptional, greeted us as we arrived, showed us all about the car and had us on our way in our little Nissan Kick in no time. As a spouse I could also drive for no extra charge. We will be dropping it off in Deer Lake in 16 days. Total cost including drop fee was $1450.

Heading north we explored side roads and little towns along the way, one of which was Dildo (had to do it). The weather was once again dry and sunny which was a blessing.

Took some photos, walked around the harbour then headed north again stopping in Catalina for a big grocery shop.
We finally arrived in Ellison and after exploring the town for a few minutes checked into our delightful BnB, Bird Island and bubbles. We are on the main floor, a queen studio with small kitchen and views to the ocean across the road. Very comfortable and $200 CDN per night

Day3.

We are staying very close to the Puffin viewing site so that is where we headed after breakfast. Our neighbours were checking out of the BNB but said that there were only a couple of puffins there yesterday. The sky was overcast but it was dry and very windy and chilly. I was glad to have brought ear muffs and a windbreaker with me, as well as my hiking stick.
After parking the car in the car park we walked across to the path through the grass to the ocean. There is a place to leave a donation and a fellow there to answer questions at the top of the trail. It’s not a long walk, but if you have mobility challenges like I do, it took longer than the 10 or 15 minutes everyone else did it in. There are some loose stones and uneven rocks to climb up. I found that keeping to the left was easier. It is a very long drop down to the rocks and ocean below, and slippery grass so keep away from the edge as there are no guard rails.
However we were rewarded with more than 100 puffins on the rocks. Doug saw one that was siting only 6 feet away. We hung out there for at least an hour watching them, talking to other travellers and enjoying the rugged coastline views.

Now for the icebergs! I have been following the iceberg finder site and heard there was quite a big one in Bonavista at Mockbegger so that is where we headed. There were a few people there and we saw about five large pieces of what was mostly intact as one big berg yesterday according to folks we met there. We stayed for over an hour and watched them break into more pieces and get smaller in that short time. They were quite close to shore due the the wind and bobbing and rocking back and forth. We were very happy to have seen this today as no telling what will be left of it tomorrow.

Newfoundland does not offer many public bathrooms unless you are on the trans Canada highway. The smaller highways and parks don’t have anything but we found a visitor centre in Bonavista that does have one in case you are in need as I was. Also gas stations. There is also not a bank in Bonavista or many of the small towns and the ATMs were empty here today so bring some cash with you.

We also are finding that for June many restaurants are only open weekends or reduced days until July. Today we packed a lunch though, and probably will most days. We found a lovely spot near the Bonavista lighthouse to enjoy our meal.

Now we are off to Keels, where part of the movie Maudie was filmed ( a famous folk artist who was actually from Nova Scotia). The rains came at the same time we started our journey and by the time we got there it was pretty nasty but still enjoyed the scenery. The general store used in the movie was open, however the tea house was closed till July which was disappointing. The owner spoke to us for quite some time telling us about the filming process etc., a lovely friendly man.

It was getting very cold windy and wet so we worked our way back to our BnB knowing that tomorrow is promising clearer skies . We decided to cook dinner here tonight instead of going out and braving the elements.

Day 4
A return to see the iceberg again this morning. It was even smaller but so close to shore and because today was glorious sunny and warm there was a lot of blue in the water and bottom of the berg so it was beautiful

Not far from Bonavista is Spillers Cove where we went for a walk up a hill on what looks like a narrow goat trail. The vegetation is very close to the ground and bog like. Reminds us of the plants at Paradise Meadows and also the bog park in Tofino back home on Vancouver Island. Beautiful views of the craggy cliffs and outcroppings. T shirt weather today, what a bonus.

Met another couple from Merville, a town as small as ours on Vancouver island which was fun.
Not far was Dungeon provincial park. Just a little walk around but once again gorgeous views of the ocean and cliffs and two arches formed into the rocks.

Tickle Cove Sea Arch was next, about an hours drive down a terrible road. The smaller the road the bigger the potholes it seems. No need for speed bumps in these small towns.

This one was a challenge for me, I have some mobility issues right now but with the use of my cane and taking my time I did it. There were a few stairs but the challenge were the rocks to climb on and around. Most people would not find this much of an issue. We were planning to come here yesterday and glad we decided to head back because of the terrible weather. It would not have been much fun in the rain.
But today was spectacular. There is an arch carved into the rock from erosion from the ocean. The rocks are very red in color. We found a bench and ate our lunch and enjoyed the amazing view, feeling like we were at the end of the earth and all by ourselves.

But then we saw another couple come over the hill and we started talking and found that they were staying at the same BNB as us, an hour and a half away which was ironic. Then two more couples came, and we found out that they were also staying at the same BNB. How wild is that? There are only three units and we were all here. We talked for about 45 minutes or so about our travels and giving and getting advice about places not to miss.

A detour to Trinity on the way back but we were tired and two tour busses were there so we just drove around rather than explore on foot. A beautiful little heritage town with all the colourful homes

I notice that on the outskirts of towns many of the houses are white, but in the towns they are painted the beautiful bright colors of blue, yellow, red, green and orange. All are in great repair and the yards and exteriors all look great too. Many are vinal siding. A lot of pride in their homes.
Doug went next door to the Puffin Cafe and got a seafood platter to go. He said it was delicious and very fresh, cod, cod tongues, scallops, shrimp, mashed potatoes and carrots all for $25

Day 5. June13.
Moving day. We left around 10AM and headed north on the trans Canada until we hit Gambo
From the there we took route 320 and then on to 320-36 along the coast which was much more scenic, but did take a bit longer.
The area of New-Wes-Valley had lots of little towns close together.
Lunch was had at Salt and Sail restaurant in Brookfield nearby. A lovely and charming place on a small harbour and the food was awesome.

Then on to 330, 331, 340 until we reached Twillingate. We enjoyed passing through some very cute little towns along the way

Icebergs!!! Huge one. And it is right in front of our Airbnb , Whispering Wind Cottages in Bayview. It was one big one last night but broke in two and now there is a huge one, maybe 150 feet tall, a medium one which is still big and a number of small ones.

What a gift, and so close to shore.

Our cabin is lovely, right on the water, one bedroom with kitchen for just under $200 per night.

It is so much colder today, around 7 or 8, but still dry so can’t complain.

Day 6
Iceberg on the move! The one in front of our cabin has moved even closer overnight. It’s crazy how they can change and move so much. A lazy morning watching it and just enjoying being here

Time to explore. We drove to Toogood Arm , Herring Neck and Pikes Arm . Pikes Arm has a set of stairs up to a view point that Doug did, but I stayed below and wandered around. The view from there was amazing he said

The stairs to the top. My back and leg could not do this unfortunately

There were some beautiful coastal areas that were picture perfect, and another gorgeous day as well

Our next stop was the Beothuk interpretation centre in Boyd’s Cove. A small museum that tells the story of the original peoples here who became extinct in 1829 due to many factors. An interesting stop.

Doug really wanted to enjoy a lobster dinner which we found back in Twillingate at Pier 39. An upscale restaurant but you need not dress up for it. The doors opened at 4 and we were the first customers. Lovely staff and the food was great. Doug had his lobster dinner, caught that day, and lobster bisque and dessert for $49. I had a red pepper soup for $11. ( I don’t eat meat or fish of any kind, haven’t for many years)
My soup was great but I was still hungry and made a salad when I got home. Doug was very happy though, he said it was amazing

Checked in on the bigger iceberg on the way home to find it has broken in half and even closer to shore.

The one in front of our cabin has move again, to the other end of the little island. A group of kayakers paddled out to the little island and hung out there, very close to the iceberg, to watch the sun go down

Day 7. A different looking iceberg yet again this morning, and it has moved again too. Another spectacular morning. How lucky are we?

I think it turned around or maybe some broke off. It looks quite different. What a sight to wake up to though. I had no idea when I booked this place that it is a common iceberg viewing area.


I am sure you are all tired of all the iceberg photos by now but we find them fascinating.

We had a lazy morning till noon just watching the boats travelling around what we consider our iceberg.
Eventually we headed out but had to stop and look at the bigger one again and it had changed again. A drone shot I saw shows it is actually still connected as one but the sunshine made it glow even bluer. Spectacular .

First stop was the lighthouse, Long Point which offered great views from the top of a cliff. There are lots of walking trails but they are longer and lots of places for us to get vertigo and fall to our death so decided against it.

A small museum is in the lighthouse ($5 admission). For an additional $5 you can take an escorted tour to the top of the lighthouse up 52 stairs and some of them ladder like. Doug went up and said the views were amazing.

A drive through Crow head and then a few hours poking around the shops and craft shops in Twillingate. It is Sunday today and everything is open both shops and restaurants. Summer tourist season is in full swing here now.

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Lunch was at the Stage Head pub on the Main Street. We sat outside where Doug really enjoyed a lobster roll and I had a veggie burger .

Then the Durrell museum is very small on top of the hill but admission was once again only $5 and they had some interesting artifacts from earlier days.

One more look at the big iceberg and then back to the cabin to relax. We had a great time in Twillingate.

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Day 8. June 16.

Ok enough of the icebergs already!!! Time to move on. It took an hour to drive to the Fogo Ferry in Farewell harbour and we were advised to arrive between one and one and a half hours prior to wait in line.
We caught the 11:30 ferry which took an hour. The next one is not until 3:15 so you want to be sure to get on. And the fare for two seniors and a car was only $22 return! Nice ferry and a gorgeous day sitting outside on the deck

The check in time for our BNB was not until 5 PM so we explored for a while. We found a place by the water to have the lunch we brought with us and stopped at the information centre. The woman there was great and helped me download the Fogo island app with all the restaurants and shop info.

Word of advice: get a paper map!! You can order one from the visitors bureau before you leave home or pick one up at the car rental or any information centre. One of the few places left where you can still get paper maps and for good reason.
Cell service is few and far between. You can load in your destination but as soon as you stop the car or add a destination you lose everything and then you are flying blind. With the map you get a good idea, there are not that many roads.

We drove around the south of the island and it was gorgeous. It seems every house has an ocean view. The towns we saw were Little Seldom, Seldom,Deep Bay and Island Harbour

Doug found a trail called the Courting trail at DeepBay that he walked for a short bit.

Our BNB is in Joe Batt’s Arm but on the way we stopped for a top up of our groceries and then at Mona’s Quilt and Jam Shop for some Partridge Jam, (a local berry) and some pickled beets, both of which are delicious. Doug bought some Labrador tea and some Sweet Gale tea.

Our home for the next three nights is the Orange House by the Inn, a beautifully decorated one bedroom house that is so cute. $220 per night.

We have a view of the harbour as well.

Day 9
Al’s walking tour was booked months ago and we arrived in Tilting at 9:30AM to find him waiting for us. We were the only ones today which was good because I didn’t have to worry too much about holding everyone up. Al was born in Tilting 76 years ago and his family has been here for generations, coming originally from Ireland. We walked through the town and then on the Oliver’s Cove Trail along the ocean for 5 KM. It was again a narrow goat trail in many spots, a few small hills and rocks but overall a pretty easy walk. Along the way he shared many stories and told us of the history of this town and Fogo Island. We really enjoyed it a lot, it was educational and entertaining. At the end we went to his shed and he played music for us on his guitar and then invited Doug to play a song
He charges $30 each but we gave him $75 in total.

Feeling a bit peckish from the walk and it was lunch time so we stopped at the only restaurant in town, The Rock Bridge Cafe which is attached to a quilt and craft shop. A lovely young woman served us some delicious potato leek soup and scones which hit the spot for a while.

I have been following an artist I love on Facebook for quite a few years and when we decided to come to Newfoundland I knew we had to include Fogo Island so that I could visit his studio. Adam Young has very colourful and whimsical paintings of Newfoundland and I knew I had to have one.
I purchased one called Twillingate that had the iceberg and many other elements in it that will remind me of our visit. He is shipping it to me and hopefully will arrive soon after I get home.

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On to the town of Fogo now. We drove around for a while exploring and then stopped by Punch Buggy, a take out place and I got a chickpea salad on focaccia and Doug got chicken salad on focaccia. There are very few restaurants here and half are only open a couple of days a week right now.

The owner of our BNB is letting us use his laundry tonight which is very nice of him . The rain and clouds have come in, but we have been so lucky it was bound to happen
We will see what tomorrow brings.

Day 10.

Our last day on Fogo island was spent poking round the area. A visit to Brett House Museum just down the road, a home from the 1800s where we learned the history of the residents who lived there.
Lunch was at The Store house, again not far from us. I had a veggie burger and Doug had a moose burger and seafood chowder which all of them were very good

A visit to Growlers home made ice cream for dessert. The chocolate was amazing and there was a strawberry rhubarb sherbet that was not to be missed

To work it all off we did a short walk on a path beside our BNB that went up to the Fogo Inn over the hill. I was glad for the big lunch as the wind was very strong and felt like we would get blown off the cliff at times.

The Fogo Inn was built in 2013 and is very exclusive. The all inclusive prices start at $3500 per person per night. They, and many other places on the island, participate in a Canadian charity and an initiative where the profits go back to the community. The Store house restaurant also participates as does Growlers. There is no tipping in these places. Sounds like a great idea for the small community. The Inn attracts many of the rich and famous and has put Fogo on the map as well as employ many of the locals.

Tomorrow morning we take the ferry back to the mainland and head to the west coast of Newfoundland for some new adventures.